ACTIVE
Alpha-Arbutin
A gentle brightening ingredient, made in the lab as a form of arbutin (the naturally occurring form, beta-arbutin, is found in bearberry leaves), used to help skin look more even, with results that build over weeks.
Source
Made from hydroquinone and glucose
Used for
The look of dark spots and uneven tone
How it works
Alpha-arbutin is a lab-made form of arbutin, a brightening compound whose naturally occurring form, beta-arbutin, is found in bearberry leaves. It is prized for helping the look of dark spots fade and for a more even-looking tone over time.
A review of the research on alpha-arbutin found that in laboratory testing it is around ten times more effective than natural (beta-)arbutin, needing a far lower concentration to achieve the same effect. That extra potency is what lets alpha-arbutin work at lower, gentler concentrations than older brightening ingredients.
Alpha-arbutin is often paired with other brightening actives like niacinamide or kojic acid for a more complete routine, and, as with any pigment-targeting active, is best used alongside daily SPF, so its gradual, multi-week results can show at their best.
A review of the research on alpha-arbutin found that in laboratory testing it is around ten times more effective than natural (beta-)arbutin, needing a far lower concentration to achieve the same effect. That extra potency is what lets alpha-arbutin work at lower, gentler concentrations than older brightening ingredients.
Alpha-arbutin is often paired with other brightening actives like niacinamide or kojic acid for a more complete routine, and, as with any pigment-targeting active, is best used alongside daily SPF, so its gradual, multi-week results can show at their best.
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A lab-made form of arbutin; the natural form, beta-arbutin, is found in bearberry leaves
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Around ten times more effective than natural arbutin in laboratory testing
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Works at lower concentrations than older brightening ingredients as a result
Questions
What is alpha-arbutin?
Alpha-arbutin is a molecule made of hydroquinone joined to a glucose unit, a lab-made form of arbutin. In skincare it is used to help lighten the look of dark spots and uneven tone. (PubChem)
Is alpha-arbutin the same as arbutin?
They are close relatives. Arbutin, sometimes called beta-arbutin, occurs naturally in plants. Alpha-arbutin has the same building blocks, hydroquinone and glucose, joined in a different orientation. In a laboratory study on tyrosinase from human pigment cells, the enzyme that drives melanin production, alpha-arbutin had a stronger inhibiting effect than arbutin. (Saeedi et al., 2021; Sugimoto et al., 2003)
Is there research on alpha-arbutin?
Yes. Much of the research is laboratory work on tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in making skin pigment, and a review reported that alpha-arbutin is about ten times more effective than natural arbutin in this respect. That potency is why it can be used at gentler levels than older brightening ingredients. (Saeedi et al., 2021)
Where it comes from
Alpha-arbutin is the alpha form of arbutin: the same hydroquinone and glucose building blocks as the natural compound, joined in a different orientation. (PubChem; Saeedi et al., 2021)
Its natural counterpart, arbutin, is a glucoside of hydroquinone found in plants. Both slow tyrosinase, an enzyme in the chain of reactions that turns the amino acid tyrosine into melanin, the skin's pigment, and in laboratory tests on human tyrosinase alpha-arbutin was the stronger of the two. (Sugimoto et al., 2003; Saeedi et al., 2021)
Its natural counterpart, arbutin, is a glucoside of hydroquinone found in plants. Both slow tyrosinase, an enzyme in the chain of reactions that turns the amino acid tyrosine into melanin, the skin's pigment, and in laboratory tests on human tyrosinase alpha-arbutin was the stronger of the two. (Sugimoto et al., 2003; Saeedi et al., 2021)
Good to know
Alpha-arbutin works gradually, so use it consistently and give it several weeks to show its most even-looking results. Pair it with a daily SPF in the morning, and patch test first if your skin is easily irritated.
The research
- Saeedi M, Khezri K, Seyed Zakaryaei A, Mohammadamini H. A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin. Phytotherapy Research. 2021;35(8):4136-4154. PMID: 33724594. (opens in a new tab)
- Sugimoto K, Nishimura T, Nomura K, Sugimoto K, Kuriki T. Syntheses of Arbutin-α-glycosides and a Comparison of Their Inhibitory Effects with Those of α-Arbutin and Arbutin on Human Tyrosinase. Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2003;51(7):798-801 (opens in a new tab)
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 158637, Alpha-Arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside, C12H16O7) (opens in a new tab)
