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Melasma: Why It's Different From Other Dark Spots

3 min read
Close-up of a woman's cheek showing patchy brown pigmentation
Melasma tends to show as matching patches on both cheeks, one clue that it's different from sun spots.

Our main hyperpigmentation guide covers melasma as one of three causes of dark spots, but it genuinely behaves differently enough from a sun spot or a post-blemish mark that it deserves its own breakdown, not a paragraph. Here's what makes melasma distinct, and why it deserves its own approach. Melasma is chronic and recurrent, and persistent, changing or extensive pigmentation needs a clinician's assessment.

Melasma is a chronic, patterned form of hyperpigmentation (typically symmetrical patches on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin), and it's a common reason people seek advice about pigmentation. DermNet, the dermatologist-written skin resource, notes that melasma is more common in women than in men, usually first appears between the ages of 20 and 40, and is most common in people who tan easily or have naturally brown skin.

What makes it different from a sun spot or a post-blemish mark

Ordinary sun spots and post-inflammatory marks are triggered by a single, identifiable event (cumulative UV exposure or a specific instance of inflammation), and they generally fade gradually over months with consistent sun protection, sometimes with the help of brightening ingredients. Melasma is more often driven by hormonal factors (pregnancy, hormonal contraception, or hormone therapy) layered on top of sun exposure, which is part of why it tends to be more stubborn and more prone to recurring, even after it fades. This isn't a claim that melasma can't be managed. It's a real, evidence-backed reason it's worth approaching as its own category rather than assuming a standard dark-spot routine will behave the same way.

What the evidence supports

Sun protection is the non-negotiable foundation for melasma specifically, more than for almost any other pigmentation concern: unprotected sun exposure is a well-recognised trigger for melasma to appear or darken. A broad-spectrum sunscreen worn every day, reapplied when you're outdoors, belongs in any routine where pigmentation is a concern. Our Sun Protect Tinted Fluid SPF30 is a mineral, tinted option for everyday wear. Sunscreen protects skin; it isn't a treatment for melasma.

Beyond sun protection, a dermatologist can talk you through the options that suit your skin. In everyday skincare, antioxidant ingredients such as vitamin C can help skin look more even and radiant overall, but they aren't a treatment for melasma.

A realistic approach

Melasma is chronic and recurrent, so no cosmetic routine can promise a fading timeline. Expect any change to be gradual, and expect some recurrence to be common rather than a sign that anything was done wrong. Persistent, changing, widespread, or pregnancy-related pigmentation is genuinely worth a dermatologist's assessment rather than a purely at-home approach, particularly since some effective prescription options aren't appropriate during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Our realistic timeline guide puts melasma's pace alongside other causes of hyperpigmentation, if you're trying to set expectations across the board.


Sources

This article is educational and doesn't replace medical advice. Melasma, especially during pregnancy or breastfeeding, should be assessed by a dermatologist rather than treated purely at home.

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