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Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
A lipo-amino acid that pairs hydroxyproline, a building block of skin's own structural proteins, with two palmitic acid chains, for skin that looks smoother and feels supple.
Source
Hydroxyproline, an amino acid, joined to two chains of palmitic acid
Used for
Smooth, supple-feeling skin
How it works
An amino acid made to love oil.
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline is a lipo-amino acid: hydroxyproline, one of the amino acids that make up skin's structural proteins, made oil-soluble with two palmitic acid chains so it blends easily into creams and serums. It is often used alongside signal peptides such as hexapeptide-11 in smoothing formulas.
Hydroxyproline is one of the signature building blocks of skin's main structural protein, where it appears again and again along the protein's tightly coiled strands. That is why it is a natural choice of starting point for an ingredient designed for skin.
In cosmetics it is listed as a skin conditioning ingredient, one that keeps skin in good condition, and it is also used in hair care as a conditioning and antistatic ingredient. It is typically found in smoothing creams, serums and eye care, used morning or night.
Hydroxyproline is one of the signature building blocks of skin's main structural protein, where it appears again and again along the protein's tightly coiled strands. That is why it is a natural choice of starting point for an ingredient designed for skin.
In cosmetics it is listed as a skin conditioning ingredient, one that keeps skin in good condition, and it is also used in hair care as a conditioning and antistatic ingredient. It is typically found in smoothing creams, serums and eye care, used morning or night.
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01
Keeps skin in good condition, soft and smooth-feeling
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Built from hydroxyproline, an amino acid found in skin's own structural proteins
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Oil-loving, so it blends easily into creams, serums and eye care
Questions
What does the name mean?
It describes the molecule. Hydroxyproline is an amino acid, and "dipalmitoyl" means two chains from palmitic acid, a natural fatty acid, are attached to it. (COSMILE Europe; PubChem)
Why attach fatty acid chains to an amino acid?
Hydroxyproline on its own is a small, water-loving molecule. The two palmitic acid chains make it oil-loving, so it can be carried in the oil phase of a formula alongside plant oils and butters. (PubChem)
Is it the same as collagen?
No. Collagen is a large protein made of many thousands of amino acids, and hydroxyproline is one of the amino acids that recurs throughout it. Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is a single, small, modified amino acid, listed in cosmetics as a skin conditioning ingredient. (Shoulders and Raines, 2009; CosIng)
Where it comes from
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is built on hydroxyproline, a ring-shaped amino acid, carrying two chains of palmitic acid, a natural fatty acid. (PubChem)
Hydroxyproline is one of the most common amino acids in skin's main structural protein, where the repeating sequence proline, hydroxyproline, glycine helps hold its triple-stranded shape together. (Shoulders and Raines, 2009)
In cosmetics it is used to condition both skin and hair. (CosIng; COSMILE Europe)
Hydroxyproline is one of the most common amino acids in skin's main structural protein, where the repeating sequence proline, hydroxyproline, glycine helps hold its triple-stranded shape together. (Shoulders and Raines, 2009)
In cosmetics it is used to condition both skin and hair. (CosIng; COSMILE Europe)
The research
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 170556, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline ((2S,4R)-1-hexadecanoyl-4-hexadecanoyloxypyrrolidine-2-carboxylic acid, C37H69NO5) (opens in a new tab)
- COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe) cosmetic ingredient database: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (ingredient based on the amino acid proline with palmitic acid as fatty acid component; functions: antistatic, hair conditioning, skin conditioning) (opens in a new tab)
- European Commission CosIng database: Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, trans-1-(1-oxohexadecyl)-4-[(1-oxohexadecyl)oxy]-L-proline, CAS 41672-81-5, EC 255-490-0 (functions: antistatic, hair conditioning, skin conditioning) (opens in a new tab)
- Shoulders MD, Raines RT. Collagen structure and stability. Annual Review of Biochemistry. 2009;78:929-958. PMID: 19344236. (opens in a new tab)
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5810, L-Hydroxyproline (trans-4-hydroxy-L-proline) (opens in a new tab)
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 985, Palmitic Acid (hexadecanoic acid, C16H32O2) (opens in a new tab)
Found In
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