ACTIVE
Kojic Acid
A naturally derived ingredient made by fermentation, used in brightening products to help skin look more even in tone, with results that build over several weeks.
Source
Fungal fermentation
Used for
Uneven-looking skin tone
How it works
Kojic acid is produced during the fermentation of rice and other starches, and is one of the more established ingredients used in brightening skincare.
Research on skin has reported a visible change in the appearance of pigmentation with a preparation containing kojic acid.
Results from kojic acid build gradually over consistent use across several weeks rather than overnight, and daily sun protection is essential alongside it, because new pigment forms readily from UV exposure, which can undo the progress a brightening routine is working toward.
Research on skin has reported a visible change in the appearance of pigmentation with a preparation containing kojic acid.
Results from kojic acid build gradually over consistent use across several weeks rather than overnight, and daily sun protection is essential alongside it, because new pigment forms readily from UV exposure, which can undo the progress a brightening routine is working toward.
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Produced by the fermentation of rice and other starches
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Studied on skin for its effect on the look of pigmentation
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Used in brightening products to help skin look more even over time
Questions
What is kojic acid?
Kojic acid is a natural substance made by fungi, especially Aspergillus species. Its name comes from koji, the Japanese name for the mould Aspergillus oryzae. In cosmetics it is used to help skin look brighter and more even. (Wawrzyk-Bochenek et al., 2023)
How does kojic acid work?
It slows tyrosinase, the enzyme skin uses to make melanin, the pigment behind darker-looking patches. Kojic acid binds the copper that tyrosinase needs in order to work, which reduces the formation of new melanin, and this is why it is used in cosmetics to help skin look brighter and more even in tone. (Wawrzyk-Bochenek et al., 2023)
Is there research on kojic acid for uneven-looking skin?
Yes. A study that used precise skin imaging found kojic acid helped skin look brighter and more even in tone. (Wawrzyk-Bochenek et al., 2023)
Where it comes from
Kojic acid is made by fungi as part of their natural metabolism, especially Aspergillus species, and takes its name from koji, the Japanese name for Aspergillus oryzae. (Wawrzyk-Bochenek et al., 2023; Yamada et al., 2014)
Commercially, kojic acid is made by fermentation, using fungi such as Aspergillus oryzae with glucose as the starting material. (Yamada et al., 2014)
Commercially, kojic acid is made by fermentation, using fungi such as Aspergillus oryzae with glucose as the starting material. (Yamada et al., 2014)
Good to know
Kojic acid can cause a skin allergy in some people, so patch test any new product first and stop using it if your skin reacts. Pair it with a daily SPF in the morning to protect the more even-looking tone you are working towards. (Nakagawa et al., 1995)
The research
- "Evaluation of the Reduction of Skin Hyperpigmentation Changes under the Influence of a Preparation Containing Kojic Acid Using Hyperspectral Imaging: Preliminary Study," Journal of Clinical Medicine, 2023 (opens in a new tab)
- Yamada R, Yoshie T, Wakai S, Asai-Nakashima N, Okazaki F, Ogino C, Hisada H, Tsutsumi H, Hata Y, Kondo A. Aspergillus oryzae-based cell factory for direct kojic acid production from cellulose. Microbial Cell Factories, 2014;13:71 (opens in a new tab)
- Nakagawa M, Kawai K, Kawai K. Contact allergy to kojic acid in skin care products. Contact Dermatitis, 1995;32(1):9-13 (opens in a new tab)
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