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Salicylic Acid

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Salicylic Acid

A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble, so it works inside pores as well as on the surface, and is used in products for oily, congestion-prone skin.

Source

Made by synthesis (also found in willow bark and wintergreen)

Used for

Oily, congestion-prone-looking skin, exfoliation

How it works

Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which allows it to reach into oil-filled pores rather than working only on the skin's surface. There, it helps break down the built-up debris and dead skin cells associated with congestion.

Salicylic acid is often used for oily, congestion-prone skin, and the lower levels used in everyday skincare act gently enough for regular home care, unlike stronger professional salon peels.

Salicylic acid is typically introduced a few times a week rather than daily at first, giving skin time to adjust before increasing frequency. Because it exfoliates, use it alongside daily SPF, and avoid stacking it with other strong exfoliating acids in the same routine to keep skin comfortable.
  1. 01

    Oil-soluble, so it works inside pores as well as on the surface

  2. 02

    Widely used in home care for oily, congestion-prone skin

  3. 03

    Gentle at the lower concentrations used in everyday skincare

Questions

What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is an exfoliating acid that has been used on skin for more than 2,000 years. It is found naturally in willow bark, sweet birch and wintergreen leaves, and it can also be made synthetically. Its ability to loosen the outermost layer of skin is why it is widely used in exfoliating skincare. (Arif, 2015)
Is salicylic acid a BHA?
It is usually called one, and the BHA name is widely used in skincare, though chemists note its structure differs slightly from a true beta hydroxy acid. What matters for your skin is that it is oil-soluble, so it can work inside pores. (Arif, 2015)
How is salicylic acid different from glycolic acid?
The key difference is that salicylic acid is oil-soluble, while alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid are not. That lets it mix with the skin's surface lipids and with the oil in hair follicles, the openings known as pores. It works by loosening the junctions between surface cells, so they shed more easily. (Arif, 2015)
Is there research on salicylic acid in skincare?
Yes. A review by dermatologists and cosmetologists describes salicylic acid as one of the acids most often used for oily and blemish-prone skin, both in professional peels and in home-care products. It notes that home-care products use lower concentrations than salon treatments and act gently, which is why they suit regular use. (Adamski et al., 2021)

Where it comes from

Salicylic acid and related salicylates occur naturally in plants, with willow bark, sweet birch and wintergreen leaves among the best-known sources. Unlike alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, it is soluble in fats and oils. (Arif, 2015)

It can also be made synthetically. Rather than breaking down skin cells, it works by loosening the connections between them, so dead surface cells shed more easily. (Arif, 2015)

Good to know

Salicylic acid is not suitable for children under three. Because it exfoliates, wear a daily SPF alongside it, and patch test on a small area first. (US FDA)