HYDRATOR
Urea
A component of skin's own natural moisturising factor. Urea and its gentle derivatives, such as hydroxyethyl urea, are used in skincare as humectants that help draw and hold moisture in the skin.
Source
Made by chemical synthesis (also found naturally in skin)
Used for
Dry-feeling skin, hydration
How it works
Urea occurs naturally in healthy skin as part of what dermatologists call the Natural Moisturising Factor: the mix of small molecules in the outer skin layer that attracts and holds water. Applied topically, it draws moisture into the skin the same way, acting as a humectant.
This hydrating action is why it's a longstanding, well-studied ingredient for very dry areas like elbows, heels, and body skin generally.
Urea is typically applied once or twice daily directly to dry areas such as heels or elbows, rather than the whole face. It pairs well with an occlusive balm afterwards to help lock the moisture in, and lower-strength formulations are gentle enough for everyday facial use.
This hydrating action is why it's a longstanding, well-studied ingredient for very dry areas like elbows, heels, and body skin generally.
Urea is typically applied once or twice daily directly to dry areas such as heels or elbows, rather than the whole face. It pairs well with an occlusive balm afterwards to help lock the moisture in, and lower-strength formulations are gentle enough for everyday facial use.
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01
Hydrates skin by mimicking its own natural moisturising factor
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02
Helps skin feel more comfortable in dry, rough areas
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03
Well suited to very dry body skin, not just the face
Questions
What is urea in skincare?
Urea is a small, water-attracting molecule that occurs naturally in the outer layer of skin as part of its natural moisturising factor, the mix of substances that helps the skin's surface stay hydrated. In skincare it is one of the most widely used moisturising ingredients, and at higher levels it also helps loosen dry, rough-feeling skin. (Piquero-Casals et al., 2021)
Where does the urea in skincare come from?
Urea occurs naturally in skin, and the urea used in skincare is made in the lab from simple building blocks, so it does not come from animals. (PubChem)
Is urea gentle on skin?
Generally, yes. A 2021 review describes urea products as well tolerated. At higher levels, urea works more as a gentle exfoliant than a moisturiser. (Piquero-Casals et al., 2021)
Is hydroxyethyl urea the same as urea?
They are related but not identical. Hydroxyethyl urea is a synthetic derivative of urea. The European cosmetic ingredient database lists it as a humectant, which holds and retains moisture, and as a skin and hair conditioning ingredient. (COSMILE Europe)
Where it comes from
Urea is one of the components of the natural moisturising factor found in the outermost layer of human skin, where it helps keep that layer hydrated. (PubChem; Piquero-Casals et al., 2021)
The urea used in skincare is made in the lab from simple building blocks, so it does not come from animals. (PubChem)
The urea used in skincare is made in the lab from simple building blocks, so it does not come from animals. (PubChem)
Good to know
Urea helps other ingredients pass more readily into the skin, so introduce it gently if you use it alongside other active ingredients. As with any new skincare, patch test first if your skin is easily irritated. (Piquero-Casals et al., 2021)
The research
- Piquero-Casals J, Morgado-Carrasco D, Granger C, Trullàs C, Jesús-Silva A, Krutmann J. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatology and Therapy (Heidelberg), 2021;11(6):1905-1915 (opens in a new tab)
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 1176, Urea (opens in a new tab)
- PubChem (US National Library of Medicine). Urea (CID 1176): Methods of Manufacturing (opens in a new tab)
- COSMILE Europe (Cosmetics Europe) cosmetic ingredient database: Hydroxyethyl Urea (2-(hydroxyethyl)urea; functions: hair conditioning, humectant, skin conditioning; origin: synthetic) (opens in a new tab)
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