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Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate)

A fat-soluble, oil-compatible form of vitamin C that brings antioxidant support to a formula's oil phase, helping skin look brighter and more radiant.

Source

Made from vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and palmitic acid

Used for

Antioxidant support in oil-based formulas

How it works

Ascorbyl palmitate is made by attaching a fatty acid (palmitic acid) to ascorbic acid, which makes it fat-soluble rather than water-soluble, unlike most vitamin C forms. This lets it blend into the oil phase of a formula rather than the water phase, alongside nourishing plant oils.

In laboratory research on human skin cells, ascorbyl palmitate showed antioxidant activity, lowering levels of reactive oxygen species, the unstable molecules behind everyday environmental stress.

It shines as part of a broader antioxidant formula, and makes a lovely morning partner to your daily SPF for skin that looks bright and well cared for.

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A fat-soluble form of vitamin C that blends into a formula's oil phase
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Studied for its antioxidant activity in human skin cells
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A lovely morning partner to your daily SPF

Questions

What is ascorbyl palmitate?

It is a form of vitamin C made by joining ascorbic acid, the compound commonly called vitamin C, to palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid made by plants. This makes it an ester of vitamin C, and its fatty part makes it fat-soluble, so unlike ordinary vitamin C it blends into the oil phase of a formula. In cosmetics it is listed as an antioxidant. (PubChem; COSMILE Europe)

Why does an oil-soluble vitamin C matter?

Plain vitamin C is water-soluble and electrically charged, so it is repelled by the skin's outer barrier and cannot be blended into oils. Attaching a fatty part was designed to help vitamin C's delivery into skin, and it lets ascorbyl palmitate sit comfortably alongside plant oils and butters in the oil phase of creams, body care, sun care and after-sun products. (Pullar et al., 2017; COSMILE Europe)

How does ascorbyl palmitate work as an antioxidant?

It acts as a radical scavenger, neutralising free radicals and inhibiting reactions promoted by oxygen. In a formula this helps protect the other ingredients from oxidising, and on skin it helps defend against oxidative stress. In a laboratory study on human skin cells, ascorbyl palmitate lowered levels of reactive oxygen species, the unstable molecules behind everyday environmental stress. (COSMILE Europe; Meves et al., 2002)

How is it different from other forms of vitamin C, and does it pair with vitamin E?

Pure ascorbic acid is water-soluble, while ascorbyl palmitate is fat-soluble, so it works in the oil phase of a formula rather than the water phase. The European cosmetic ingredient database describes vitamin C esters such as ascorbyl palmitate as more stable than pure ascorbic acid, and recommends combining vitamin C with vitamin E, a fellow fat-soluble antioxidant, because the two regenerate each other. (COSMILE Europe; Pullar et al., 2017)

Where it comes from

Ascorbyl palmitate is made in the laboratory rather than extracted, by joining ascorbic acid with palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid made by plants. (PubChem)

The idea behind it is to help vitamin C into skin. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant, but as a water-soluble, charged molecule it is repelled by the skin's outer barrier, so derivatives with a fatty part, such as palmitate, were designed to assist delivery. (Pullar et al., 2017)

Good to know

Ascorbyl palmitate is an antioxidant, not a sunscreen, so it belongs alongside your daily SPF rather than in place of it. It makes a lovely morning partner to sun protection for skin that looks bright and well cared for.

The research