ACTIVE
Zinc
Zinc PCA, a water-soluble zinc salt long valued in cosmetic chemistry for its astringent character, helping skin look clearer, fresher and more balanced.
Source
Mineral-derived zinc compounds (zinc PCA, zinc oxide)
Used for
Mineral UV filter (zinc oxide); skincare formulas (zinc PCA)
How it works
Zinc PCA (zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate) is a water-soluble salt of zinc, long used in cosmetic chemistry for its astringent, shine-taming character, properties that make it well suited to formulas aimed at oily or shine-prone skin.
In laboratory research on human skin cells, Zinc PCA helped the cells stand up to UVA stress. It is not a sunscreen, so it belongs alongside daily SPF.
Zinc suits daily use in formulas aimed at shine control, and works well alongside hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep the formula from feeling tight or over-drying.
In laboratory research on human skin cells, Zinc PCA helped the cells stand up to UVA stress. It is not a sunscreen, so it belongs alongside daily SPF.
Zinc suits daily use in formulas aimed at shine control, and works well alongside hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep the formula from feeling tight or over-drying.
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A water-soluble zinc salt (Zinc PCA), valued for its astringent character
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Shown in laboratory testing to help human skin cells stand up to environmental stress
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Helps skin look clearer, fresher and more balanced
Questions
What forms of zinc are used in skincare?
Zinc appears in skincare as different compounds that do different jobs. Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), a molecule naturally present in the skin's outer layer. Zinc oxide is a mineral compound used as a UV filter in sun protection products. (Takino et al., 2012; Li et al., 2023)
Is there research on zinc PCA?
Yes, encouraging laboratory research. In a study on cultured human skin cells, zinc PCA helped the cells stand up to UVA exposure. (Takino et al., 2012)
Is zinc oxide a sunscreen?
Yes. Zinc oxide is one of the mineral UV filters used in sun protection products, in both its standard and nano forms. It's the SPF of the finished product that tells you how much protection it gives, so apply generously and reapply as directed.
Where it comes from
Zinc oxide, the form of zinc used in mineral sun care, is a fine white powder made from zinc and oxygen. (Kołodziejczak-Radzimska & Jesionowski, 2014)
Zinc PCA pairs zinc with PCA, also known as pyroglutamic acid, a natural derivative of the amino acid glutamic acid. PCA is one of the natural moisturising factors found in the outer layer of human skin. (PubChem; Li et al., 2023)
Zinc PCA pairs zinc with PCA, also known as pyroglutamic acid, a natural derivative of the amino acid glutamic acid. PCA is one of the natural moisturising factors found in the outer layer of human skin. (PubChem; Li et al., 2023)
Good to know
Zinc PCA suits daily use and works well alongside hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep skin from feeling tight. If your routine includes a zinc oxide sunscreen, apply it generously as the last step in the morning and reapply as directed.
The research
- Takino Y, Okura F, Kitazawa M, Iwasaki K, Tagami H. Zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2012;34(1):23-28. PMID: 21834944. (opens in a new tab)
- Li R, Rodrigues M, Li L, Winget J, Wang Y, Wang C, et al. Association Between Skin Acid Mantle, Natural Moisturizing Factors, and Antibacterial Activity Against S. aureus in the Stratum Corneum. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2023;16:1595-1606. PMID: 37378303. (opens in a new tab)
- Kołodziejczak-Radzimska A, Jesionowski T. Zinc Oxide - From Synthesis to Application: A Review. Materials, 2014 (opens in a new tab)
- National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 7405, Pyroglutamic acid (L-pyroglutamic acid, PCA) (opens in a new tab)
